How To Propagate Kalanchoe Plants

Among various methods of its multiplication, stem cuttings remain the most widely used and the simplest. This method works especially well for those species of Kalanchoe that have long, wood-like stems or if the plant has become leggy and you want to give it a rejuvenation.

Materials Needed:

• A healthy Kalanchoe plant
• Sharp, clean scissors or pruning shears
• Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
• Small pots or containers with drainage holes
• Well-draining soil - such as a cactus or succulent mix
• Plastic bag or humidity dome (optional for high humidity)

1. Select a Healthy Stem

Start by selecting a non-flowering, healthy stem from your Kalanchoe plant. This stem should be at least 3-6 inches in length. The color of this stem should be firm and green, with no apparent sign of diseases, pests, or damage.

Avoid taking the cuttings from too woody or mature stems, as this reduces their chances of rooting effectively. Younger stems tend to root better because they are much more flexible in texture.

In selecting the stem, look out for a sturdy one with several nodes - that is, the place where leaves meet the stem. The node is critical to note since this is where roots will develop. Also, choose a stem that isn't flowering, as energy spent on flowers will weaken rooting.

2. Taking the Cut

Make a clean, precise cut, using a sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears, just below a node. The cutting should be around 3-6 inches long and should be taken from a healthy section of the plant. 

The cutting should have at least two or three healthy leaves at the top to help it photosynthesize and establish itself before the roots take full hold.

3. Prune Extra Leaves

Once the cutting is taken, remove the leaves from the lower half of the stem. This is important, as any leaves submerged in the soil will rot and lead to disease.

Leave a few leaves on the top of the cutting (around 2-3) to ensure the cutting can still carry out photosynthesis while it is rooting. Eliminating excess leaves minimizes the stress of cutting and redirects the plant energy resource into root growth rather than maintaining the already existing foliage.

4. Let the Cut Make Callus

Perhaps the most crucial stage in the whole propagation procedure is giving the cut end of the stem sufficient time to callus. This usually only takes 1-2 days, during which the exposed flesh will have a hard crust over it.

This callus serves to safeguard the cutting from taking massive amount of moisture once it is transplanted to a pot of soil and end up rotting. Leave the cutting on a clean paper or tissue, or parchment paper, and put in a warm and airy place. Readily, maintain the cutting out of direct sunlight as it causes dehydration.

5. Plant the Cutting

When the end of the cutting is callused, it’s time to plant the cutting. Many people use a small pot or container with drainage holes, then fill it with a good drainage material using a cactus or succulent mix.

Preserving soil moisture is necessary but should not be done too much because too much moisture will cause root rot for the Kalanchoe plants. In case you do not have a cactus mix you are likely to avail one from any nearby store or garden centre or else you can make one on your own by adding 3 parts of regular potting mix with one part of sand or perlite to increase the drainage capability of the soil.

Put a small hole in the soil using pencil or chopstick. Put the cut end of the stem into this hole, of depth 1 to 2 inches of the soil. It is recommended to very slightly press the soil around the cut part of the cutting to make sure that it stands upright.

6. Water the Cutting

After having placed the cutting in soil, water it lightly. The soil should be moist but not soaked. Overwatering will cause them to rot, so a balance should be struck. Kalanchoe plants like to dry out between waterings.

Plant the cuttings with good air circulation and keep in a warm, dry place away from direct sunlight to stimulate rooting. You may have to water the cuttings every 2-3 days, but always check on the soil first. If it is still moist from the previous watering, wait a day or two before attempting to water again.

7. Tracking Root Development

The rooting time is different under different conditions of temperature, humidity, and light. In about 2-3 weeks, the root should have started to develop on the cutting. You will notice that if you pull on it gently, there will be some resistance, which will indicate that roots are growing.

If you are living in dry areas, a humidity dome or plastic bag will create the greenhouse effect to keep it moist. If you put it in a plastic bag, ensure that the bag doesn't touch the actual cuttings, as it invites mold.

8. Transplanting and Aftercare

Once the roots have developed and the cutting is well set, it's time to plant it in a bigger container or continue with care in the same container. By this time, you are allowed to treat the plant as an adult Kalanchoe.

If you are going to transplant it into a larger pot, select a pot with drainage holes to avoid waterlogging. Put fresh well-draining soil in the new pot and place the rooted cutting in the middle of the pot. Firm the soil around the roots gently to keep the plant steady.

After transplanting, it's still necessary to water it lightly, keeping the soil moist without being wet. The pot should then be put where there is plenty of indirect sunlight - no direct sunlight is preferred for a newly transplanted plant.

The best way to grow new plants of Kalanchoe, especially when propagation of a certain variety or form is wanted, is by leaf-cutting propagation.

This method works with many species of Kalanchoe, as they can easily produce new plants from a single leaf. Leaf cuttings are also great for cloning a plant and getting a new one that is sure to have the same characteristics as the parent plant.

Materials Needed:

• A healthy Kalanchoe leaf
• Sharp scissors or a knife, make sure it is clean and sanitized
• Well-draining soil, cactus or succulent mix
• Small pot or container with drainage holes
• Rooting hormone is optional but can encourage faster rooting

1. Choose a Healthy Leaf

Choose a healthy and mature leaf from your Kalanchoe plant. The leaf should be firm, full, and not showing any signs of disease, pests, or physical damage. The ideal leaf for rooting will neither be too old nor too young. Take a leaf that is not dry or yellow, as such leaves do not propagate well.

When selecting the leaf, make sure that it does not have any disease or pest infection; otherwise, it will be transferred during propagation. A healthy, fresh leaf will guarantee you the highest chance of successful multiplication.

2. Take the Leaf Cutting

Cut the leaf from the plant with clean, sharp scissors or a knife at the very base of the leaf, where it attaches to the stem. A clean cut, smooth and without blemishes, will help in lessening the chances of an infection. 

Never tear a leaf, because doing this can cause an injury that will affect the entire process of propagation. A clean cut ensures that it won't be infected with any fungal infection or just rot out, which is really crucial for successful rooting.

Make sure that you provide for the leaf doesn't sever the basal part of the leaf, where a cut as near to the stem is better without hurting the plant.

3. Wait Till You See Callus

Put the cutting down on a flat clean and dry surface i.e. a piece of paper, paper tissue or paper tissues after the cutting. This should take about 1-2 days with the cut end of the leaf not in contact with the medium but rather allowing it to dry out and for a callus layer to form.

Because when the leaf is planted, this step becomes significant in that it will form a protective layer over the cut area in order to avoid rot. You will let the cut end callus; this is important because it makes the leaf better placed to survive in soil and get a good root system.

The process also preserves the tissue of the leaf from wetting through water which may cause fungal or bacterial decaying. Store it over this period in a cool, dry and preferably airy place but not directly under sunlight. By this stage, there should not be any moisture deposited on the leaf to cause mold or rotting of the leave.

4. Plant the Leaf

Prepare a little pot or some other container with proper drainage mix in it. As for Kalanchoe, one should use a cactus or succulent mix because the latter type of soil provides an appropriate drainage thatKalanchoue needs to prevent it from rotting at the roots.

There is also ordinary garden soil which, when blended with sand or perlite, will improve the drainage of the soil. Simply take the cut end of the leaf and beat it gently into the soil using your finger or a pencil.

Place the cutting about 2-3cm deep into the medium ensuring that it is standing straight not leaning. The part of the leaf containing a cutting should be placed with the part that has been cut placed on the soil as this is where the roots will develop from.

5. Wait for New Growth

This step requires patience. After some time, the leaf cutting will start developing roots and new shoots, though these changes may take several weeks to a few months. Be patient during this period and keep caring for the cutting as described in the previous steps.

Check on the cuttings regularly to monitor any development of the roots. Once you notice that there are formed roots and a little growth like small shoots, coming from the base of the leaf, you will realize the process of propagation has been a success.

Yes, Kalanchoe can grow from seed sown but we must appreciate that sowing seeds takes time and should be accompanied by a lot of attention.

Preparing the Seeds

To start growing Kalanchoe from seeds, bring a small dish of well-draining seed compost into service. Sow the very small seeds on the soil surface as they require light for germination; scatter over the soil surface lightly. Do not cover them with soil.

Spray the seeds with water so that the surface of the seeds remains wet, the seed tray should be put in a warm, sunny spot but out of direct sunlight. For better humidity, simply cover this tray with a plastic top or cover. The germination normally take about one to two weeks with complete germination taking fourteen days.

Care of Seedlings and Transplanting

When the seedlings reach two to three sets of true leaves and are big enough to transfer, transplant them in separate pots or in the garden.

Ensure you plant them at an appropriate distance so that they grow adequately. They should frequently be given indirect light and water in order for them to grow adequately.