How to Raise And Care Chickens As A Beginner?

While they can frequently be housed on smaller plots, chickens remain farm animals, making it crucial to verify that you are legally permitted to keep them. The most unpleasant scenario occurs when you realize you can't accommodate them after investing time and money.

Laws will differ among states, counties, and communities. There could be limits on the number of chickens allowed, the locations for keeping them, and including a rooster in your group. Selling eggs or meat will subject you to extra regulations. Reach out to your local municipality and/or homeowner's association before commencing the construction of a coop.

The key to raising chickens in your backyard is a good coop. Given their ancestry as jungle fowl, which suggests they like higher altitudes, a roosting place is crucial. The birds also need nest boxes. Otherwise, they will lay eggs everywhere, making it time-consuming to look for them daily.

You should have enough room for the chicken coop. It should accommodate water dishes and a feeder as well. It should be big enough for someone to walk inside, collect eggs, and remove manure easily. 

In the winter, a well-insulated area with a heat lamp or light bulb is essential, as is ventilation to allow fresh air. Ensure every bird has at least 3 to 5 square feet of room, including the outdoor space. There is an infinite number of different coop designs with a vast price range. Try to find a design that works for you and provides easy access.

Establishing a secure and cozy environment that protects the chickens from predators and enables them to thrive is essential to raising them successfully. As natural foragers, chickens use dust baths to keep pests out of their feathers and scratch the ground for food. To encourage these behaviors, offer them a safe outdoor space to roam around during the day and a secure coop for protection at night.

The coop must be built solidly with durable materials and devoid of minor openings since predators such as raccoons, rats, and snakes can slip through small spaces. Put secure locks on doors and windows to stop clever creatures, like raccoons, from getting inside. Remove any clutter, such as woodpiles or equipment, from around the coop, as these can lure predators or offer them places to hide.

Ensure the coop has a sturdy roof or netting to safeguard against hawks and owls. Fencing must go below ground level to stop digging animals like local dogs or foxes from burrowing into the coop. Consider installing motion-sensor lights or cameras to discourage nighttime predators. In addition to physical security, maintaining a clean coop and removing food leftovers prevents rodents from stealing the eggs and killing the chickens.

Free-ranging provides benefits, even though some people do not let their hens do so because they lack space or are worried about the chickens ruining their vegetable crops.

The chickens wander throughout the day, looking for insects and small creatures. This aids in maintaining the barn and keeping areas disease-free. They also assist in repelling flies by foraging in animal waste and consuming larvae. Free-ranging reduces the need for commercial grits since they gather natural grit such as sand, stones, and pebbles, aiding them in digesting food without teeth.

Overall, free-range chickens are more content and healthier. All the movement aids in maintaining a lower weight. Diseases are also managed more effectively in this manner than in a coop environment where they are close. Their eggs are also richer in nutrients thanks to naturally foraged foods.

If you are short on space, an option besides free-range is constructing a chicken run. A chicken run provides your hens with an area to explore on the grass while ensuring they stay secure. It doesn’t need to be elaborate; it could just be a doghouse! You can set up portable electric fencing to establish a boundary around your mobile chicken coop. This method enables you to relocate the chickens as required to enrich the soil and prevent one region from being overused.

You should think about the expenses involved in raising chickens. The primary and largest investment is the chicken coop and the chickens. A coop is a lasting investment, and the more years you keep backyard chickens, the cheaper the annual cost of your coop becomes. Typically, a coop will account for 30% to 50% of your overall expenses over five years. Regarding the birds, the specific price can differ, but the typical cost is approximately $20 to $30 for mature birds. 

Chicken feed represents the largest ongoing expense associated with raising chickens. A chick typically consumes around 1 pound of feed weekly for the first 10 weeks. An adult bird requires around 1.5 pounds of feed weekly, though this amount reduces if they forage for part of their diet. They need food (and water) daily. A 50-pound bag of feed usually costs around $20, though costs can vary based on the feed's quality and where you live. A person with fewer chickens and ample foraging space may spend less on feed since it lasts longer than someone with more chickens. 

Several chicken breeds exist for egg and meat production. Many of these can adjust to a backyard environment, but some are more suited for backyard situations than others. Most people decide according to the climate where they live and egg production. 

If you reside in a region that experiences warmth and humidity for a significant part of the year, select heat-resistant breeds with relatively compact, streamlined bodies and prominent combs that assist them in remaining cool during intense heat. Examples include Leghorns, Andalusians, Minorca, and Phoenix.

On the other hand, if you reside in a chilly environment, a larger chicken with a smaller comb will thrive more, such as Brahma, Chantecler, Australorps, Barred Rocks, and Wyandottes.

If egg production is important for you, Australorp, Barred Rock, Delaware, Leghorn, Rhode Island Red, and Sussex are excellent choices. They will not produce an egg daily but will supply five to six eggs weekly throughout spring and summer.

Deciding how many to raise is vital for their health when keeping chickens. Chickens are social animals, so having at least three is the minimum advice to guarantee they can form a proper social hierarchy. A group of three to six chickens is ideal for beginners.

The availability of space is another essential element. Every chicken requires a minimum of 4 square feet in a coop and 10 square feet in a run to prevent overcrowding, which may result in stress and health problems. For new chicken owners, beginning with six birds helps you learn about their care requirements without feeling overwhelmed.

Remember, having too few chickens might lead to loneliness or aggression while having too many can deplete your resources and complicate management.

Roosters, or male chickens, are not essential for a thriving backyard flock, and new chicken farmers are advised against getting one. Your hens will produce eggs even without them. Besides, roosters can be aggressive and may harm humans, pets, and other chickens with their sharp claws. Several roosters housed with hens may also engage in deadly fights.

Regrettably, determining the sex of a chick is challenging. Certain breeds possess sex-linked characteristics that facilitate the identification of male and female chicks, but these techniques are not infallible. As a result, some chicken owners find themselves with an unanticipated rooster among a group of hens.

The only reliable method to prevent getting a rooster is by taking in grown chickens. If you end up with a rooster, contact nearby small farms, sanctuaries, or shelters for guidance on rehoming it safely.

Chickens are omnivores. They feed on insects, fruits, vegetables, and grains and need a balanced, commercial feed containing protein, vitamins, and minerals.  Their diet should also include a proper amount of grind for digestion and crushed oyster shells for egg production. A six-pound hen consumes approximately three pounds of grain each week.

They like bread and leftovers of vegetables and fruits from the garden and kitchen. The hens enjoy crackers and oats as a snack; they don't satisfy their nutritional needs, but they're fine in moderation.

They may consume more feed in the winter because they burn more calories and less in the summer because of the heat. A chicken's diet must include clean, fresh water. This is especially necessary during summer when they regulate their temperature by panting.

Cleanliness is crucial for bird health, so you should clean the coop and outdoor area once a week or as frequently as needed to control manure and odor accumulation and thoroughly clean every spring to maintain a hygienic, safe environment. Regularly clean and disinfect feeders and water containers. Dust baths should also be available since they control mites.

Additionally, cleaning before introducing new birds into the area will reduce disease transmission. Remove all bedding and feeders and clear the coop's nooks of cobwebs and dust. Clean inside the coop, including the troughs, perches, and nests. You can disinfect these spaces with water and chlorine bleach. Take precautions when working with dust and dry chicken feces. You can get sick from breathing these, so put on a dust mask and mist the surrounding walls.

Around six months is when hens begin laying eggs, and they can continue for five to ten years, with the first two years being the most productive. Each week, they should lay roughly six eggs. 

However, the amount of eggs they produce drops every year when the chickens molt (drop their feathers in early autumn) and have fewer daylight hours. For hens to continue laying eggs, they need at least 12 to 14 hours of light daily. You can create this light condition with a regular light bulb.

Chicken manure consists of leftover feed, gut bacteria, digestive fluids, mineral residues from metabolism, and water. Manure leads to moisture and smell problems and thus requires management.

One possibility is to clean the coop thoroughly multiple times each year. This cleaning schedule will regulate the smell and the population of flies. An alternative is to graze the chickens. Portable shelters are an effective resource for grazing chickens and minimizing cleanup efforts. Just relocate the house when the manure starts to accumulate. It provides fresh areas for chickens to forage and scratch while supplying natural lawn fertilizer.

Another alternative is composting. Composting can take place directly in the chickens' bedding. To begin this process, place approximately 4 inches of bedding. Consistently mix the bedding to avoid clumping, and incorporate fresh bedding until it reaches a depth of 10 inches by winter.

Persist with this procedure until the bedding reaches a depth of 12 to 15 inches. At this level, composting starts actively and can eliminate harmful bacteria after 6 months. This composting generates heat, helping to warm chickens during colder months and drawing in natural fly predators. It should be turned frequently to keep it healthy and avoid crust formation.

Beginners should start their flock with young chicks available in local hatcheries and farms. Provide a cozy space for your chicks to brood in before they arrive. You can store them in a galvanized tank, wood box, or plastic container for a month.

Heat is essential in the first few weeks of a chick's existence, so place a heat lamp over its brooder. Lower the temperature by 5 degrees per week after starting at 90 degrees. You can sustain an average temperature of 70 degrees after five weeks. There should be constant lighting for the first 48 hours to help them rest and learn when to sleep at night. After that, they require eight hours of darkness every day. 

The chicks will require water once they arrive. To teach them to drink water, give them water immediately and dip their beaks into the water troughs. Chicks must consume starter feed specifically for newborn chicks for the first six weeks of their lives. 

You will need to feed them commercial grower feed from weeks 6 through 18. During this time, you can also add treats like shredded lettuce, fresh grass cuttings, and chicken-safe table scraps to their diet. They can start eating the same layer of feed as the rest of your chickens in week 18. You should transfer the chicks to their outdoor coop by weeks five and six. 

Washing your hands well before and after handling chickens or their equipment is one of the simplest yet most effective hygiene habits. This practice prevents the spread of harmful bacteria on chicken feathers, droppings, or feed, such as Salmonella or Campylobacter. 

It is also essential to isolate new chickens for at least two weeks before incorporating them into your current flock. This process ensures that the new birds are free of parasites or diseases that could infect your existing hens. 

Not every veterinary clinic possesses the expertise or tools required to care for hens. Although some veterinarians focus exclusively on poultry, they are usually unavailable for small backyard flocks. Attempt to connect with a veterinarian specializing in local exotic animals or birds. An excellent resource to locate is the Association of Avian Veterinarians.

It is essential to have your hens checked by a veterinarian annually, as they are very good at concealing their health issues until they become ill. This yearly evaluation can assist in identifying issues while they remain manageable. The veterinarian will assess the chicken's physical condition and the state of its beak and claws and look for any indications of parasites or wounds.